The Manufacturing Process
After drawing inspiration from emerging trends, runway shows, as well as art, architecture, and everyday life, the design team gradually brings the models to life through sketches representing the forms to be developed.
The base of the shoe, the three-dimensional last, is crafted based on the drawings and specifications. The last maker not only considers the stylistic aspect but also works on shaping the shoe for maximum comfort. It serves as a mold for the model.
At this stage, all shoe components are laid flat. A “shell” is created, a replica of the model molded on the last, allowing the pattern maker to draw, reveal, and arrange the various parts that will compose the shoe.
Using the pattern, the different pieces of the shoe are cut from the leather. Cutting can be done with a laser, die-cut, or by hand. The goal is to optimize the available surface area relative to the shapes to be cut to minimize waste.
Once cut, the elements are prepared to be assembled and form the upper part of the shoe. The leather pieces are stitched together. To avoid excess thickness at the connections, the stitcher trims them, intentionally reducing the thickness.
Folding and Socklining
The edges of the pieces are folded onto themselves, then glued and sewn for a more aesthetic finish. This is called folding, followed by socklining, where the front and back of the shoe are assembled.
This is the stage where the shoe truly takes shape. The upper part is placed back on the last, and the materials are manipulated to conform to the volumes. Then, the upper is attached to the sole in several steps, depending on the model and its specificities.
Finally, the workshop pays attention to the important small details: attaching the insole, adding laces, eyelets, etc. The shoe is then cleaned, inspected, and packaged in its box.